Thursday, January 15, 2009

Mahabalipuram

This family wanted their photo taken

Too bad he was wiping his eyes

Rock climbing

Hello

Temple

Happy Pongal!

Too bad it's blurry, but hopefully you get the idea of this beauty.

Bus arms.

Hands-down, the cutest part of the bus ride :)

Yesterday marked the beginning of Pongal, a harvest festival celebrated throughout Southern India. Pongal is a three day festival that originated around 200 bc. The first day's celebrations are dedicated to Lord Indra, the storm god. The second day is dedicated to Lord Surya, the sun god, and the final day is dedicated to animals (in particular, cattle). Most businesses close for the first day of Pongal, so as such, I had work off yesterday. I had originally planned on spending the day visiting Tirupati, a famous temple complex a couple hours north of Chennai. Intimidated by the idea of unbearable crowds, though, I decided to head 60 km south from Chennai to Mahabalipuram.
The bus ride alone was an adventure in and of itself. I've quickly learned that waiting in a single-file line is not only overrated, but is a completely useless strategy to getting a seat on the bus. The motto seems to be "may the quickest, most agile, and most aggressive man win." I repeated this in my head as I climbed aboard the bus, pushing and being pushed by hoards of eager Indians, excited for their south-bound holiday excursion. Myself, along with 50 or so other people, were simply too late. All the seats were filled and the aisle of the bus was nearly packed as well. For the first 20 or so minutes of the journey I stood elbow to elbow between an old woman and my friend, Sabu. As luck would have it, though, I spotted an open "seat" just ahead of me. I spotted the gleaming yellow seat and made a mad dash for it. Finally! I situated myself comfortably on something that looked like a 30 lb. sack of potatoes. The bag of groceries proved to be quite a makeshift chair in the middle of the aisle.
After about two hours of travel (and getting to know my oh-so-close bus companions), I arrived in Mahabalipuram. The place, well known by locals and tourists alike, is famous for its 20 km stretch of beach and famous historical carvings. The entire afternoon was spent exploring caves, carvings, and temples. Most of the carvings date back to 700 AD, some even older. The beach was quite nice- much cleaner than any of the beaches in Chennai. I sampled my new-favorite snack from several different vendors- pineapple with masala! Basically, there are several fruit stalls that serve raw, cut-up fruit and vegetables (pineapple, mango, cucumber) that are sprinkled with a spicy, salty concoction. It's quite basic but delicious nonetheless!
I must admit it was quite nice to spend a day outside of the city center. I didn't realize how much I needed a break from the "urban thralls" of the city until I escaped from it all.
Enjoy the pictures!

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Snaps and Shots

What can I say? I'm a sucker for the bike.


The City.




Marina Beach



Dinner is almost ready...




Stumbling upon a North Indian wedding. My motivation was to take pictures, but I was invited to do much more...








Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Home Sweet Home..or something like it

Hey everyone-

So as usual, I don't really know who's following this blog but if you are, leave feedback!
I wish I had time to write on this thing more regularly. So much has happened in the last six days, it's difficult to sporadically remember stories to share about my life here. I've been exploring as much as I can, both alone, as well as with the new friends I've made almost daily since being here. To be honest, I felt the majority of people were a bit cold when I arrived. I went out of my way flash big, toothy grins in others' directions and received nothing in return. Such a response caught me off guard; I'm used to being in Bali where (almost) everyone will return a smile and hello. Somehow, though, things are beginning to change. Maybe people can read my growing comfort within the city, or can pick up on my increasing familiarity with Chennai, but what I first interpreted as hostility has given way to friendliness.
I've been riding around on the buses- something that had previously been forecasted to me as a downright bad idea. Although depictions of hot, smelly crowds didn't come across as an appealing means of commute, I've given it a shot. I've come to accept the fact that one has to sacrifice comfort, privacy, and space for a cheap price. At only 4 rupees per ride, the public bus system is hard to beat!
One of my favorite things about the city is that everyone minds their own business. I can't say I much mind small-town New England's everybody knows everything about everyone vibe. Sure, Chennanites probably have their own gossip circles, but no one seems to mind me walking down the street or purchasing fruit from the street vendor. Not to say that I don't get weird looks, (I get plenty, ESPECIALLY when I'm witnessed running down the street to catch the bus) but I'm a coming and going of sights just like anyone else.
I've got to say that things are going really well for me right now. Admittedly, I had a couple "panic attacks" when I first arrived. Being charged twice at the hotel, not knowing where to find a mattress for my dorm room were just a couple such scenarios. But I'm loving the ups and downs of being here. There are power outages, restaurants without bathroom, and plenty of non-English speakers: all of these things can make life for an American difficult here. But with these trivial frustrations come loads of things to appreciate, if not downright envy. Yesterday I drove by a small temple, situated on a busy street corner. The temple was fenced off, and surrounded by an ancient-looking banyan tree. Such an odd sight to see a tree so large, so historic in presence, right smack dab in the middle of an otherwise fully developed part of town. Odd, but beautiful none the less.
The food here is delicious. And I eat every last bit of it with my right hand (no matter the sauce or liquid consistency, the right hand tackles it all!). Tamil is a beautiful language which I hope to conquer even some small part of. So far, I've got my basic greetings down. Hinduism is always present in various forms, be it temples, offerings, or ancient Ramayana art.
So far so good here, and I must say that for now, Chennai is where it's at.
:)

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Varnakam!

Good morning India.
I'm finally here! After nearly 30 hours of traveling, I've arrived, safe and sound, in India. The flights here were relatively uneventful, no major turbulence or otherwise excitement. My 7 hour layover in Abu Dhabi airport went by relatively quickly, considering I spent the whole time with Reenal, a girl I met on the flight in who was heading to Bombay to visit family over the holidays.
At around 8:00 pm Tuesday night, I arrived in Chennai. Thankfully, all of my luggage arrived as well! Managed to exchange money (at a disappointingly poor rate, 42 rupees to 1 US dollar), and hop in a pre-paid taxi to my hotel. The taxi ride lasted a good 45 minutes, and cost me just under six bucks.
I felt excited the first night I got here, but also completely overwhelmed. Once I arrived at the hotel, it turned out they didn't have a copy of my reservation! I had to beg, plead, and speak with the manager before I could finally secure a room. What a relief it was to just unload all of my things in the room and wind down!
After getting a good night's sleep the first night, I was ready as ever to explore, and enjoy my first full day in India. Technically, yesterday was New Years eve, but that didn't mean a whole lot to people around here. While I did hear the occasional "happy new year" directed at me, the day certainly wasn't about champagne and Times Square.
I wandered aimlessly around the streets in Egmore yesterday, the part of the city where I'm currently staying. The city's exciting because there are people everywhere, drinking coffee out of tiny mugs on street corners, or shoveling gravel off the road, working in the hot sun. Many Indian men relieve themselves wherever they please- yesterday I learned that most people prefer to walk on the streets, rather than on the sidewalks, for this very reason! The kids here are absolutely adorable, some of the little schoolgirls have perfectly combed braids and matching outfits.
I went with my new friend Chris (an American whose parents and family is originally from Tamil Nadu) for lunch, and had my first ever (hilarious) Indian lunch experience! We went to a very popular chain restaurant right around the corner from my hotel. I forget the name now, but it's known for its South Indian vegetarian cuisine at really affordable prices. I had no idea what to order, so I just decided to go for the "limited special" which seemed to have a little of everything in it. A huge bowl of white rice came first, followed by a large silver tray containing a colorful variety of sauces. I was instructed by Chris and the waiter how exactly to go about eating it all. While I won't go into too much further detail, I'll just say it was a hilarious endeavor. Not only did Chris and I have a good laugh about it, but the rest of the restaurant did as well! I suppose there's nothing more humorous to an Indian than watching a foreigner's pathetic attempt at eating an Indian thali for the very first time...with their hands! (Everybody eats with their right hand- things get quite messy but it's fun!)
After lunch, Chris and I drove to Spencer Plaza, a popular shopping destination. The drive was exhilarating and a bit terrifying- day one in India and I already found myself on the back of a motorcycle! Spencer Plaza was basically an Indian version of an indoor shopping mall; a 4-story building selling everything from cell phones, to rugs, to salwar kameez (traditional Indian clothing). I was in the market to get some salwar, as I've been told it's the most appropriate and respectable way to dress. After a couple hours and some somewhat successful bargaining, I left Spencer's with two new tops. Total price: $8.
Chris dropped me back off at my hotel and I rested up before doing some afternoon exploring. Around 4:00, I met up with Arun, whom I've chosen to nickname "the smartest, most street savvy, aspiring engineer around." Arun has been very helpful to me thus far; he knows the city backwards and forwards and has mapped the whole place out! We visited the flea market, where he sold some of his "junk" for 60 rupees. You know what they say: one man's trash is another man's treasure.
We traveled by food, train, and bus, all over the city. I photographed some historical buildings and monuments, while Arun told me about the British colonial legacy in Chennai. I, rather hesitantly, tried some fresh sugarcane juice from a vendor on the side of the road. While it didn't appear to be the most sanitary of juice stops, I took my chances and went for it, as Arun swears by the stuff. Turns out it was delicious, and I haven't gotten sick from it yet! (Knock on wood.) Our final stop of the day was at the Marina Beach, supposedly the longest beach in the world! It's a pretty incredible place, filthy, but lively and full of different characters and action. No one really swims there because the current is too strong, but there's plenty of vendors, kite-flyers, and kids to entertain everyone.
I reached my hotel around 7:00 last night, after a full day of walking and exploring. I was exhausted, and my feet covered in blisters! I guess that's a good sign that I had quite a productive New Years eve. :)
My night concluded with a trip to the fruit-sellers on the corner of the street to buy some pomegranate. Munched down on fresh fruit and hit the hay (I didn't even make it to midnight to pat myself on the back for surviving the new year).
So far, so good!
Moving into the dorms today at IIT's campus- will try to post pics up tonight!

Monday, December 29, 2008

Outward Bound

Of all songs, I can't seem to get Whitesnake's "Here I Go Again" out of my head- the lyrics of the chorus are all too fitting! "Here I go again on my own...(guitar riff), going down the only road I've ever known, like a drifter I was born to walk alone.."
I feel like that song needs to be playing in the JFK airport as I board the plane tomorrow, and needs to be playing once again when I arrive in Chennai a couple days from now. I've always wanted to create a soundtrack to my life: who knew that Whitesnake would be a part of that CD?
I'm writing from a hotel near the JFK airport right now. It's Sunday night, and Mom and I are resting up here before the early morning drop-off tomorrow. My flight leaves at 10:00 am, but have to arrive 3 hours early to meet the demands of international terminal logistics, etc.
Can't believe it's already been three weeks since I've been home! I suppose in some ways, the time flew by. On the other hand, it feels like months since I was last in Bali. The tan has faded, my sleep cycle has returned to almost-normal East coast time, and I was just starting to appreciate breaths of fresh, cold air. Alas, I knew that my brief stint in the states was just that: brief and temporary. I had such a good time seeing everyone (and I mean, EVERYONE!) I could have possibly seen from home. Being with the family over the holidays was great, and running into old high school friends was rather enjoyable (you never know what KHS reunions will entail). While it's hard to believe that tomorrow is "the day," I feel good and ready to get this show on the road, and see what India, Chennai, and my internship are all about!
Please read up while I'm gone, and find out how I survive my first couple days in the big city! Will I be able to navigate myself around without getting ripped off... manage to order a meal without having to look at pictures...meet some nice folks to celebrate the New Year with?
Wish me luck!!!
"In the universe, there are things that are known, and things that are unknown, and in between, there are doors." - William Blake

Much love- K

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Live with Intention

It's cold and the snow is coming down hard right now in New Hampshire. The power is still out here at home, this marking the 8th day without it. Almost right after I arrived in the states a huge ice storm hit New England, forcing over a million people to lose their power. News reporters are saying it's the worst storm in New Hampshire's history. Things are slowly improving, with crews working round the clock to restore power to people's homes- but still not here! The latest report is that there are only 16 homes in West Chesterfield now that still have no power...and guess who's one of them! That's right, 295 Streeter Hill Rd. As much of an inconvenience as it is this time of year to not have power, I feel incredibly fortunate to have a generator. Loud and exhausting as it is to keep refilling with gas (thanks Dad!), we haven't actually had to move out to a shelter like so many other New England residents in search of heat and food.
Admittedly, I must confess that I initially found the situation to be quite ironic. Leaving the jungle in Bali, where power shortages are common (but rarely last more than a night), with the thought that I'd come home to a quaint, "same ol, same ol" life in NH. Just goes to show you that these things can happen anytime, anywhere, and do! All over the world.
It's ten days now and counting until I leave for India! Almost thankful to be completely snowed in today as it leaves me with time for thinking, planning, and preparing. I'm trying to immerse myself in all the research I can before I leave by frequenting India chat forums online, checking weather updates, and reading famous Indian novels. Currently I'm reading The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai, a famous, award-winning novel set in Northern India. I know that, ultimately, I can only prepare myself so much for what I will find in Chennai before I leave. Still, though, it feels like the smart thing to do (and also satisfies my incessant curiosity) to do some preliminary research. - First thing on the agenda: find a place to stay for New Years! I'll be arriving the day before New Years Eve and won't be able to move into the dorms until January 1st. That means two days of wandering, exploring, and hopefully meeting some people to celebrate the new year with.
Ideas are always welcome!
Lastly, a huge THANK YOU to all of you supporting me and sending positive thoughts my way. No matter the solo travel, I never feel alone.