Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Sangkhlaburi!

View of Sangkhlaburi!

David and I. Goofy..

Relaxing at P's on the day we arrived. Tired after 16 hour bus ride (and only two hours of sleep)

Outdoor patio furniture carved out of marble. Nice indeed


Working from an outdoor cafe- break for a photo-op.

Observing an English class with the Mon Women's Organization.

Cottages at our guest house.

P's Guest House! The beautiful, rodeo-style guest house David and I stayed in. All was lovely, minus the shared, squat toilets!

View down to the lake from P's Guest house.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

A Day in the Life of...

I can never seem to remember whether it’s the dogs barking or my alarm that wakes me up first thing in the morning. Perhaps a combination of both. I’m still tired and within seconds of opening my eyes I reach for my back. It’s sore but I tell myself that I just need a few more days to get used to this whole mat thing. It feels like ages since I last slept on a real mattress, let alone a proper bed! The mat can’t be more than four inches thick. It’s hard and lumpy and forces me to toss and turn every night. I lift up my head and remove the balled up sweatshirt that’s doubled as a makeshift pillow. At least that feels soft…
I leave my bedroom (actually the back storage room of the office) and walk out onto the porch to determine the day’s forecast. Today, the sun glares down at me and I squint hard to return its gaze. The heat doesn’t feel so bad, though, and I smile as a breeze lifts up my hair as I head back inside.
There’s not too much work to be done inside the office today so I decide to go into town. Equipped with my Crayola green, oversized poncho, I hop aboard the Pheasant. The Pheasant is a reckless joy on her own, an old school bicycle with faulty breaks and kickstand—she does the job. The initial part of the journey is a calm one and I smile at the peacefulness of the neighborhood. The “dog gang” is tame as it’s still early morning and they don’t seem to be bothered by anything that passes by them (thank God, because once nighttime falls the dogs evil alias’s will show themselves through sharp fangs and aggressive growls). Kids are playing with sticks and stones in the street while their mothers huddle together on the bale. I bike past and look to both sides as flashes of mountains and green poke out in between houses.
After about five minutes, I’ve reached the main road. Actually it’s called the Asia Highway- the idea being that in the near future it will connect almost all countries in the Asian continent, beginning with Singapore and ending up in Istanbul. While I’m interested in doing this whole route at some point, I don’t have the energy to do so today—I skip out on Istanbul and head to the day market in Mae Sot.
I never seem to tire from my visits to the market. Anyone who’s visited Asia knows about outdoor markets that sell everything from used flip-flops to pig heads. I park my bike outside the market- the alleyway is already too narrow and crowded, bringing a bike along makes for twice as much hassle. I walk up and down the stalls, breathing through my mouth so as to ignore the overwhelming stench of sewage, blood and fresh meat. An old woman tempts me with thin, rectangular waffles sold on wooden skewers—had I not already eaten, I would love to try the breakfast kebab.
The tables display the most fresh and colorful foods imaginable. Pea pods as green as Thailand’s rice fields and stringed sausages that look like oversized, beaded necklaces. Sometimes I feel like I’m missing out by not being a more adventurous carnivore—although this stuff isn’t the most aesthetically pleasing, I’m certain the taste must be superior to that of its packaged, factory raised counterpart.
For whatever reason, I’m drawn to the disorganized nature of outdoor market shopping. There are no signs or clean-cut rows, no cashier to ring up your order. It not unheard of to just leave approximate change on the table if the shopkeeper can’t be found…or tell the vendor you’ll pay him back tomorrow. The rain boots are located next to the raw seafood and watches are in between the fried noodles and tub of eels. There might be a method to the madness but I haven’t discovered it yet. As with most things in my life, the personal joy takes place during the exploration…

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Talking Politics

Welcome to Politics Hour- with your host, Delilah Withers.

On today's show, we'll be taking a look at the socio-political situation of the Republic of Myanmar, or as I still prefer to call it, Burma. To do so, we'll take a closer look at the internal dynamics of Mae Sot, an ethnically diverse town that strattles the Thailand/Burma border.
Before I begin, I'd like to note my Mother's advice, who always warned me not to talk politics with family. With careful defiance, I'd like to disobey her request and proceed with today's story, which I argue is one that needs to be heard.
My mentor in college often made the claim that "politics is personal." As I sit in my new office in Mae Sot, Thailand, this statement rings more true than ever. I arrived in Mae Sot just days ago to undertake my new position as "advocacy and multimedia intern." I'm working for a non-governmental organization here, whose name needs to remain anonymous due to security concerns. With respect to their anonymity, during this program I will refer to them as "ABC." In order to understand the motivations for my being here, and the objective of ABC's work, it's necessary to understand the history of Burma to better grasp today's conflict.
For the last 19 years, Burma has been run by a military dictatorship. The military rulers refer to themselves as the State Peace and Development Council, or SPDC- quite the perky name for such a brutal force. They have a track record of creating numerous human rights abuses, and violating the welfare of their people by denying them access to quality education, health care services, and decent infrastructure. The government is notoriously oppressive, with countless incidences of violence towards ethnic minorities in particular.
1988 is a year which lives on in the memories of many Burmese; it's the year the largest protests in Burma's history took place. Led by robed Buddhist monks, students, teachers, and professionals filled the streets of Burma's capital and marched for freedom and democracy- ideals that have long since been ingrained in the U.S. constitution and which, in my opinion, have largely been taken for granted. The SPDC has never been sympathetic to such Western systems of government and responded to the protests with armed military force. Thousands of people were gunned down, and thousands more imprisoned.
The SPDC maintains its iron fist throughout Burma, silencing any attempt at a free and democratic country. From an economical standpoint, things remain equally grim. Although rich in natural resources (there's an abundance of rubies, natural gas, coal, petroleum), the SPDC has excluded all types of foreign investment, leaving the once prosperous Burma to become one of the most impoverished countries in the world.
Human rights abuses continue to occur today as the regime tries to dominate the entire country. Thousands of people are fleeing violence and persecution- it's estimated that there are over 600,000 internally displaced persons (people who have fled their homes and are living in camps within Burma), and over a million refugees worldwide, many of whom are ethnic minorities.
So, where do those who manage to escape end up? Well, a first stop for many is the Friendship Bridge. With a name equally as deceiving as the SPDC (State Peace and Development Council), the Friendship Bridge is the bridge that connects Burma and Thailand at the border town of...you guessed it, Mae Sot. Mae Sot is home to the largest border crossing between the two countries and sees as many as hundreds of Burmese crossing into Thailand everyday- some of whom are making the legal day-long entry, others whom cross for good in search for work and housing.
I haven't made it to the bridge just yet myself (I plan on going for the festive Saturday market), but from what I've heard, it's notorious for all kinds of smuggling. Drugs, arms, and gems to name a few. Arms are smuggled into Burma to support the military regime and illegal gems are brought from Burma to sell on the black market here in Mae Sot.
Although Mae Sot is technically on the Thai side of the border, the population of the town if overwhelmingly Burmese. It's estimated that 95% of the Burmese here are employed as migrant workers, in factories located in between my office and the central part of town. The doors of the factories are carefully guarded by Thai policemen who are well aware of the situation inside: hundreds of ethnic minorities living, sleeping and working in a cramped space, earning salaries far below the minimum wage. Corruption is rampant here, as policemen are paid off in money or whiskey to look the other way.

A short break...

What do you think so far? I find this place fascinating and am still trying to discover all the intricacies embedded within the diverse cultures here. A glimpse at Mae Sot can leave one puzzled as on the one hand, it feels suffocated by illegal activity, political exiles, refugee camps, and police corruption. A closer look, however, reveals an inspiring movement in the works. There are dozens of small, Burmese-run organizations here, comprised of ethnic minorities who have fled Burma, that are working in the shadows of non-governmental organizations, health care clinics, and schools to establish a free and autonomous Burma. These community based organizations are spurring a pro-democracy movement, and while many such groups are forced to remain anonymous due to security purposes, their work is being heard by others around the globe, making their support network stronger.
Why am I telling you all of this? Because for the next few months, I will be working for "ABC," an organization whose goals are to assist these pro-democratic groups in whatever way possible, in hopes that their voices and story will be heard.

For anyone who is interested in learning more about the situation here, please feel free to email me. Also, take a look at this youtube video, taken by a British journalist who was in Burma during a protest crackdown two years ago:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UqQaizM15Q

Thanks for listening everybody. I'm Delilah Withers, signing out.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

Woke up this morning to venture 15 kms. outside of the city to Wat Doi Suthep, one of the most famous Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai. Although the specific founding of the temple remains a mystery, many claim that its origins date back to 1383 when the first stupa was built. I hopped in the back of a pickup truck and cruised to the top of the mountain where the temple is located... An amazing ride and beautiful temple!




Monday, June 29, 2009

By Day, By Night- Chiang Mai Sunday Market





These were my favorite pieces...


Take a guess!






Dinner time.


W.B.N (wat by night)

Kingdom of Smiles

Initial Observations, Mo Chit Northern Bus Station, Bangkok, Thailand.

Hour 1:
Style-- Legs! Lots of them. 80s jeans, different than 70s-influenced Tamil wear. Spunky haircuts and mini skirts.

Patriotism-- 1984 "honey coated Orwelian" feeling. It's 8:00 a.m and suddenly the hustle bustle of the bus station stops abruptly. Everybody becomes silent as the sound of the harmonious Thai anthem echoes from the television. Those who were walking stop.. those who were seated stand. For the next couple of minutes, I'm in awe as I watch these obedient patriots celebrate the Kingdom of Smiles.

Hour 2:
Mozzies!--The mosquitoes are bad...somehow I forgot that I was coming to southeast Asia, where mosquitoes are in fact bad. Did I bring enough repellent?

Sa wah dee cap!-- The Thai word for "welcome." Spoken everywhere, by everyone, all the time. It comes out in full nasal force and I indulge in every tone.

On another note...
Empty, dark skies parted to reveal a scattering of neon lights- Bangkok's personal galaxy. It's 5:30 a.m. and the plane lands safely outside the space-age looking airport. Instantly, I feel summoned far away from my Indian past. The airport's modern glow illuminates the streets nearby and the flight attendants welcome us to Thailand.
Fast forward: Speeding along the Bangkok race track with an ancient "No English, Miss" taxi driver. I'm wide-eyed and observant. I didn't expect my new surroundings to look quite so...new. I sit in anticipation, waiting for the old and dilapidated to spring up at least as often as the posh and modern (as is the case in India), but it doesn't. New buildings show off against a backdrop of even more modern infrastructure. The streets are swept clean and are lined by orderly trash cans.
Bus ride: 10 hours on the VIP bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. I'm too exhausted to enjoy the bizarre/comedic Thai reality show that's blaring over the speakers. I doze in and out and am awakened by fitful bursts of laughter- the audience is on cue. Men with faces caked in makeup strut around on camera, entertaining Thai audiences from here to the Phuket with their (dare I say typical?) Asian slapstick talent show routine. I glance away from the TV screen and peak out the window. Flashes of Bali green have replaced the city landscape and I'm enamored by the rice fields, street vendors and smell of coconut.
Chiang Mai: The city is clean, orderly, and comfortable. I duck into alleyways in search for the chaos and confusion that I've come to associate with everyday life (thanks, India)- it's nowhere to be found! The Thai are friendly and welcoming...it takes no time at all to reason why this land has been nicknamed the Kingdom of Smiles. I stroll around, shedding behind me pieces of my outer shell- constructed over a period of six months to defend myself against the Indian elements. I don't need to be so tough around here.
Sunday afternoon and evening- Chiang Mai market. Every Sunday, the side roads of Chiang Mai become dotted with vendors. Every nook and cranny is decorated with Hmong and Lahu inspired crafts- two ethnic groups native to Burma, China and Thailand. Jade jewelry, hand-crafted wooden bowls, and "fisherman pants" in every color imaginable.
Past the crafts, clothes, and art I find an even more delectable treasure trove. A haven of scents and smells enough to make anyone familiar with Asian culinary flavors squirm with delight. Soups, stews, spring rolls, and the infamous pad thai can be found in food stalls alongside even fresher and brighter snacks. Bright pink dragon fruit and coconut blazed, grilled banana..the options are endless.

So far, so good folks. A new exploration has begun...

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

picture this.

Several of these beginning pics are from my recent trip to Kodaikanal, an American hill station in the northwest part of Tamil Nadu. Myself, along with my trusted partner in crime, Callum Linton, ventured to the region for some rest, relaxation, and a goosie ride.

The hills of Kodaikanal! Beautiful town with fresh, cool temperatures. Kodaikanal is the only American hill station in India.

This was taken along the way from the Kodai Rd. trainstation to the town of Kodaikanal. Took about 3 hours in a rickety, public bus but the views were worth the ride.

Holy cow! Good morning bovines.

Out the front windshield of the bus!

Hike to Dolphins Peak in Vattakanal.

Cal and I at the tip of Dolphin's Peak! A hike mastered in flip-flops but was better suited for boots...we made it.

These lovebirds were resting at the edge of the cliff. Daredevils.

Reflections.

King C of the jungle.

Too bad the camera couldn't pick up the colors that existed in real life. Bright orange soda bottles contrasting with green and blue mountains in the background. Gorgeous :)

I couldn't help myself from asking the taxi driver to pull over when I spotted this roadside "market." These two women were selling delicious looking avocados, carrots and tomatoes..all against the backdrop of the mountains.

The ladies who sold it all.

It doesn't get much fresher than this folks.

Hanging tomato plants.

Yum! Had to buy a bundle of these- look how perfectly orange!

Roadside cotton candy anyone? How about some corn?

Vendors outside Silver Cascades waterfall.

A self-photographed picture of Callum and I at the Tibetan Brothers Restaurant. This photo was a necessity as we dined here on a daily basis. The momos were scrumptious and the lemon tea soothing..

The picturesque Coakers Walk. I set out at 8am this day to catch the mountains and valley before they became covered in fog.

Gorgeous view of the valley!

Sipping cardamom tea outside our guest house- amazing fog in the distance. (Fog, not smoke! What a relief..)

Coakers Walk in the evening.

Me in my element- fresh, cool air!

Goosie!!! Bring us to shore..
Eager to try our own on the horror scene-infused Disney Land paddle boats, Callum and I kicked and paddled our way across Kodaikanal Lake. Along the way, we made up stories about our trusted boat mascot, the pink swan, aka-Goosie.

"Kodaikanal Homestay" - Complete with two private cottages, a man named Raj, and a few too many dogs.

Speedo, one of Raj's nine slobbery German Shepherds...standing in front of our cottage.


somewhere different...
Elsewhere in India, one can find a pair of legs...

Mr. Ramesh selling salwar kameez and "ali baba" trousers.

Looking at art in a small shop in Mahabalipuram.

Stone carvings galore- mostly Shiva and Ganesh statues.

Mas arte.

Beautiful silk sold at the Pondy Bazaar market in Chennai.

Pondy Bazaar- a busy outdoor market near T. Nagar, Chennai

P. Bazaar